Last updated Feb 1st, 2013: Currently the gate to forestry is closed, so there's an extra 3km walk up the hill, or mountain-bike ride...

Castle Rock (Coromandel) climbing info
Castle Rock Castle Rock Coromandel Just off the 309 Road Huge potential - world class quality Long routes Fab views All sport climbing Hip and thigh toning approach!!! Nice long bolted climbing on beautifully solid rock, but before hurling yourself into this take more care than I would - serious trouble here is easy to come by. The first time I climbed at Castle Rock my climbing partner and I behaved like complete cowboys, excitedly rapping off any bolts we saw at the tops of the castle rock cliffs. That was one of the many top anchors to non-existent climbs at Castle Rock that we rapped down. We also rapped down a traversing line, the top pitch of an unfinished 5 pitch climb, and couldn't pull the ropes down... oops... blah, blah, blah.... my point being. ... it was fun... just be prepared for something different from anywhere else in the North Island. By the way last time I was at Castle Rock I saw someone nearly rap off the end of their rope A big hug and rainbow colored flowers to all the developers of castle rock - it's a steep walk to take a drill etc - you're awesome!!! NOTE: New developers please use only stainless steel hardware for new routes. Please try to hide your bolts and consider where your route starts and tops out. Climbers have already added significantly to the erosion at the tops. It's also good practice to keep low profile. Castle Rock - For non-climbing exploits Photos of C-rock How to get to Castle Rock: From Thames The "309" road (yes 309 is the name of the road) is about 3km south of Coromandel Township Driving North from Thames for about an hour Turn right at the 309 road and the sign to the Waiau Waterworks, (3km before Coromandel) When you see the Waiau Waterworks, take the next left on CASTLE ROCK ROAD Drive 3 or so km up the castle rock forestry road to the top. 2013 Summer update: The road gate is temporarily closed due to forestry work, so you'll have to walk or mountain-bike the 3km uphill for now. Just after the road curls off to the right - you can park on the right side of the road You'll be able to see the rock from here The walking track is a little overgrown at the start. Go into the bush, at the big corner, and take the little track going straight up to the summit not the long overgrown road curling off to the right Go up the walking track in the native bush. The steep walk takes about 25-40 mins up, and 20 down. At the top there's a fork in the track. Most of the climbing is on the left, but check out the view on the right cliff - you'll get a great view of the Budda wall. Try to ignore all the rap bolts on the right spur - They have mostly been placed for developers scoping out new lines. Even on the left side of the left summit there are some random top bolts leading to nothing!! NOTE: Hide any valuables: From the top you'll have a nice view of dirty crim's breaking into your car. Also, be aware that people cruise the 309 road looking for cars to tamper with. By the way, there's a cool piece of grass at the bottom of the castle rock road, next to a little river, where you can camp. If you need to take a dump the next morning the Waiau waterworks have a nice long drop outside their place which they are usually fine with people using, rather than the icky "dump" issues that end up rubbishing beautiful camp-sites. Castle Rock - From North The North Facing Wall: Budda Wall To get to the top of the climbs here you turn left at the fork in the path to go to the left summit. About 10 meters up on the path at a little rocky step, look right and you'll see a rap station. This is the top of Ganesh. There's an extra bolt on the left bank to help give you strength to get to the rap station if you don't fancy leaning out. It's a 70 odd metre drop if you slip. All climbs have rap stations of 2 or more rings. 6: Ganesh (17) 50 meters. Abseil to a ledge with rap rings. 15 bolts. There are 3 lines on this face - all slabs, all require rapping in and climbing out - I've also seen someone lower their partner down, to climb out on top-rope, which might be wiser for some. On the other side of the cliff, walking more towards the left summit you will find another rap station, quietly hiding on the right. This will connect you to 2 climbs side by side. Carefully step down to the abseil station and rap down. Those alpine shrubs hook the rope - you wont be able to pull it down if this happens, so rap down the short top pitch before committing to rappel the rest of the climb. After pulling the ropes abseil the rest of the climb - 2 more pitches down. 7: Reclining Budda (23 bottom, 19 mid, 18 top). Approx 80 meters. As you look at the cliff these climbs are on the right side and the right one, sharing the rap station is 7: 2 pitches. 19, 18 Western Summit - Kookmeyers Wall. Turn left at the fork in the path near the summit. About a meter on the left there's a hidden path (thank you Ken) veering straight down, hard left - almost back the way you just walked up! Slip and stumble down and curl right to end up at the base of a very nice wall of up to 120 metres. The first climb you come to is an open project of unknown grade - this is the very short wall on the right side of the cliff - Perhaps 12 meters. It has 3 bolts and may need another between 1st and 3rd. NOTES: The next climbs are all just under 30 meters, so bring the right rope/s! If it has been raining in the last 3 days some climbs on this wall may still be dripping wet In Summer this wall is cool till about 12/1pm, Winter it's lovely after midday. These climbs can be climbed ground up, unlike many of the other routes at Castle Rock Kookmeyers: Right to Left 5: Open Project Short 10M face with 3 bolts, but not lots of holds. 4: Nice Touch Wilbur (18) Superb, only it is often dripping many days after rain. Bring 16 draws. Up and right after 4th bolt, extend 4th and 7th quickdraws to avoid drag later on. (27 meters). 3: Wilbur's Cousin (18) Shares first 4/5 bolts with Wilbur and then veers left. Bring a long draw to extend 3rd - 5th bolts and bolt 10 and 11. A phenomenal route, just a few problems with rope drag if you don't extend draws - the bolts are in the best places for the most solid rock. Bring about 14-16 draws. 2: Wind-dancer (19) A fine line. Go up the left veering ramp and look for the bolts on the left. The 4th bolts needs moving as it makes the rope catch on a rock that creates serious drag later on and extending doesn't help: Perhaps a single biner will pull the rope away from the jutting annoyance?! This climb should be called scorpian as it has a sting in the tail. Wind-dancer will eventually be 2 pitches, but right now the second pitch is a closed project - please respect this - also know that often the bolting on these closed projects have not been finished 9: Te Punga (23). My favourite and great on a winter afternoon or summer morning. Just right of the main arete at the bottom of the hill. Fantastic - A hard start followed by a techniques lesson right to the very finish. Very photogenic too. 14 bolts 1 pitch 25 meters. Personally, I cheat clip (aid climb) the second bolt to avoid hitting the rock close by on the ground. The next climb is around the corner about 10M to the left of Kookmeyers. Getting through the bush to it can be 'interesting'. 8: The slab route (18) Slab climb. The old guide says 48 metres, but I think it's just on 30m from memory. Take 2 ropes in case.. I'll update this guide as soon as I know. This line is fantastic. NOTE: It doesn't link up with the 15 above it. The crux is getting off the ground. Bring 14 - 16 draws. Line finishes at rap-station at first clump of bushes. I heard that you can flick your ropes to rap off to the right down the 21 arete (Te Punga). Above the slab 18 is a grade 15 climb -the climbs do NOT connect. 1: 15 McBirney-Gillman Direct (30 metres (20m +10m rap approach) Accesible by rapping in from the summit: 2 ropes needed. Start by rapping in from the 3 bolts on the far end/middle of the left summit to the top of the climb. You could walk down there - staying right, but tripping up would mean goodbye cruel world. As you look at the ocean, stay on the right side of the arete for the abseil. If you see a hanger and ring far down to the left (as you look at the sea)- don't go there. You'll see the top of the climb 10m down - 2 ring bolts. Change your rope to these top anchors then go about 20 meters to the belay station situated on a small ledge part way up the cliff. You really need to know what you are doing for this one. Don't send beginners down just because they're doing that grade. Tie a knot in the end of the rope please and bring prussiks/jummars. Crux is the start (and finding the damn climb in the first place) 1st pitch of unfinished multipitch "QUIET EARTH" in an obscure part of Castle Rock. In a completely different part of the cliff. How to get to the base of the 'Quiet Earth' wall. .... start at the bottom, near the carpark just right of the ordinary path, go right on the faint path that starts at the same place. Walk down the hill about 10 minutes, passing a big slip and look for a cairn on the left. There is now a track, cut and marked. Walk right around until you see some bolts. This is a fantastic climb, with a lot of variation. This is Quiet Earth. I felt it was about grade 23 - 'they' call it 21?!. At the top there's one fixed biner - leave it there and rap off that and the ring beside it. I tried to get to the second pitch traversing on the right, but it was a damn scary, so probably needs another bolt or 3. Never assume anything has been finished either. Anyway the pitch after that hasn't been done. Further right is unfinished, so ignore that and keep going up until you see ANZAC parade 4 pitches 18,18,20,18 The third pitch is rather an adventure and has 2 main cruxes.At the chain first and later after turning right before you step up and right around the corner. Send someone brave and either strong or flexible to go up the stemming part first. Ken's route up the spike Near the carpark, you can see it from the carpark, the pillar. It's got an interesting approach I hear. Close, but not so close. I also hear it's about grade 10-14 and a few bolts. Any more information you'll just have to bash off to find the thing. Are you: Prone to enjoying crashing around lost and confused A randy old goat A Bush-bashing explorer A climber If you are all of the above take that extra energy of yours and go to castle rock to have some fun. Your Comments: This section doesn't actually work, so the truth is that I will never really either care about your comments nor will I ever be able to read them. I just thought that people might like to have a box to write comments in - it might somehow be calming after going to a dangerous climbing area with only a really manky guide book. Personally, I find it quite fun. By the way, there's another area near Hahei, that was developed ages ago. It doesn't have a guide book. Bush bash up to the cliff through gorse from the Cathedral Cove walk parking lot. We just haven't found a nice way to get there yet - but please let me know if you find a less intense approach route. When you see the cliff, near the right side-ish is a lovely crack/corner of about grade 17, which shares the chains with a bolted/trad line of about 19. It's easier to take a rack and do the trad line.

Castle Rock (Coromandel) climbing info

Castle Rock

Castle Rock Coromandel

Just off the 309 Road

Huge potential - world class quality
Long routes
Fab views
All sport climbing
Hip and thigh toning approach!!!

Nice long bolted climbing on beautifully solid rock, but before hurling yourself into this take more care than I would - serious trouble here is easy to come by.

The first time I climbed at Castle Rock my climbing partner and I behaved like complete cowboys, excitedly rapping off any bolts we saw at the tops of the castle rock cliffs. That was one of the many top anchors to non-existent climbs at Castle Rock that we rapped down. We also rapped down a traversing line, the top pitch of an unfinished 5 pitch climb, and couldn't pull the ropes down... oops... blah, blah, blah.... my point being. ... it was fun... just be prepared for something different from anywhere else in the North Island.

By the way last time I was at Castle Rock I saw someone nearly rap off the end of their rope

A big hug and rainbow colored flowers to all the developers of castle rock - it's a steep walk to take a drill etc - you're awesome!!!

NOTE: New developers please use only stainless steel hardware for new routes. Please try to hide your bolts and consider where your route starts and tops out. Climbers have already added significantly to the erosion at the tops. It's also good practice to keep low profile.

Castle Rock - For non-climbing exploits

Photos of C-rock

How to get to Castle Rock: From Thames

The "309" road (yes 309 is the name of the road) is about 3km south of Coromandel Township
Driving North from Thames for about an hour
Turn right at the 309 road and the sign to the Waiau Waterworks, (3km before Coromandel)
When you see the Waiau Waterworks, take the next left on CASTLE ROCK ROAD
Drive 3 or so km up the castle rock forestry road to the top. 2013 Summer update: The road gate is temporarily closed due to forestry work, so you'll have to walk or mountain-bike the 3km uphill for now.
Just after the road curls off to the right - you can park on the right side of the road
You'll be able to see the rock from here
The walking track is a little overgrown at the start. Go into the bush, at the big corner, and take the little track going straight up to the summit not the long overgrown road curling off to the right
Go up the walking track in the native bush. The steep walk takes about 25-40 mins up, and 20 down.
At the top there's a fork in the track. Most of the climbing is on the left, but check out the view on the right cliff - you'll get a great view of the Budda wall. Try to ignore all the rap bolts on the right spur - They have mostly been placed for developers scoping out new lines. Even on the left side of the left summit there are some random top bolts leading to nothing!!

NOTE: Hide any valuables: From the top you'll have a nice view of dirty crim's breaking into your car. Also, be aware that people cruise the 309 road looking for cars to tamper with. By the way, there's a cool piece of grass at the bottom of the castle rock road, next to a little river, where you can camp. If you need to take a dump the next morning the Waiau waterworks have a nice long drop outside their place which they are usually fine with people using, rather than the icky "dump" issues that end up rubbishing beautiful camp-sites.

Castle Rock - From North

The North Facing Wall: Budda Wall

To get to the top of the climbs here you turn left at the fork in the path to go to the left summit. About 10 meters up on the path at a little rocky step, look right and you'll see a rap station. This is the top of Ganesh. There's an extra bolt on the left bank to help give you strength to get to the rap station if you don't fancy leaning out. It's a 70 odd metre drop if you slip. All climbs have rap stations of 2 or more rings.

6: Ganesh (17) 50 meters.
Abseil to a ledge with rap rings. 15 bolts.
There are 3 lines on this face - all slabs, all require rapping in and climbing out - I've also seen someone lower their partner down, to climb out on top-rope, which might be wiser for some.

On the other side of the cliff, walking more towards the left summit you will find another rap station, quietly hiding on the right. This will connect you to 2 climbs side by side. Carefully step down to the abseil station and rap down. Those alpine shrubs hook the rope - you wont be able to pull it down if this happens, so rap down the short top pitch before committing to rappel the rest of the climb. After pulling the ropes abseil the rest of the climb - 2 more pitches down.

7: Reclining Budda (23 bottom, 19 mid, 18 top).
Approx 80 meters.

As you look at the cliff these climbs are on the right side and the right one, sharing the rap station is
7: 2 pitches. 19, 18

Western Summit - Kookmeyers Wall.

Turn left at the fork in the path near the summit. About a meter on the left there's a hidden path (thank you Ken) veering straight down, hard left - almost back the way you just walked up! Slip and stumble down and curl right to end up at the base of a very nice wall of up to 120 metres. The first climb you come to is an open project of unknown grade - this is the very short wall on the right side of the cliff - Perhaps 12 meters. It has 3 bolts and may need another between 1st and 3rd.

NOTES:

The next climbs are all just under 30 meters, so bring the right rope/s!
If it has been raining in the last 3 days some climbs on this wall may still be dripping wet
In Summer this wall is cool till about 12/1pm, Winter it's lovely after midday.
These climbs can be climbed ground up, unlike many of the other routes at Castle Rock

Kookmeyers: Right to Left

5: Open Project
Short 10M face with 3 bolts, but not lots of holds.
4: Nice Touch Wilbur (18)
Superb, only it is often dripping many days after rain. Bring 16 draws. Up and right after 4th bolt, extend 4th and 7th quickdraws to avoid drag later on. (27 meters).
3: Wilbur's Cousin (18)
Shares first 4/5 bolts with Wilbur and then veers left. Bring a long draw to extend 3rd - 5th bolts and bolt 10 and 11. A phenomenal route, just a few problems with rope drag if you don't extend draws - the bolts are in the best places for the most solid rock. Bring about 14-16 draws.
2: Wind-dancer (19)
A fine line. Go up the left veering ramp and look for the bolts on the left. The 4th bolts needs moving as it makes the rope catch on a rock that creates serious drag later on and extending doesn't help: Perhaps a single biner will pull the rope away from the jutting annoyance?! This climb should be called scorpian as it has a sting in the tail.
Wind-dancer will eventually be 2 pitches, but right now the second pitch is a closed project - please respect this - also know that often the bolting on these closed projects have not been finished

9: Te Punga (23).
My favourite and great on a winter afternoon or summer morning. Just right of the main arete at the bottom of the hill. Fantastic - A hard start followed by a techniques lesson right to the very finish. Very photogenic too. 14 bolts 1 pitch 25 meters. Personally, I cheat clip (aid climb) the second bolt to avoid hitting the rock close by on the ground.

The next climb is around the corner about 10M to the left of Kookmeyers. Getting through the bush to it can be 'interesting'.
8: The slab route (18)
Slab climb. The old guide says 48 metres, but I think it's just on 30m from memory. Take 2 ropes in case.. I'll update this guide as soon as I know. This line is fantastic. NOTE: It doesn't link up with the 15 above it. The crux is getting off the ground. Bring 14 - 16 draws. Line finishes at rap-station at first clump of bushes. I heard that you can flick your ropes to rap off to the right down the 21 arete (Te Punga).

Above the slab 18 is a grade 15 climb -the climbs do NOT connect.

1: 15 McBirney-Gillman Direct (30 metres (20m +10m rap approach)
Accesible by rapping in from the summit: 2 ropes needed. Start by rapping in from the 3 bolts on the far end/middle of the left summit to the top of the climb. You could walk down there - staying right, but tripping up would mean goodbye cruel world. As you look at the ocean, stay on the right side of the arete for the abseil. If you see a hanger and ring far down to the left (as you look at the sea)- don't go there. You'll see the top of the climb 10m down - 2 ring bolts. Change your rope to these top anchors then go about 20 meters to the belay station situated on a small ledge part way up the cliff. You really need to know what you are doing for this one. Don't send beginners down just because they're doing that grade. Tie a knot in the end of the rope please and bring prussiks/jummars. Crux is the start (and finding the damn climb in the first place)

1st pitch of unfinished multipitch "QUIET EARTH" in an obscure part of Castle Rock.

In a completely different part of the cliff. How to get to the base of the 'Quiet Earth' wall. .... start at the bottom, near the carpark just right of the ordinary path, go right on the faint path that starts at the same place. Walk down the hill about 10 minutes, passing a big slip and look for a cairn on the left. There is now a track, cut and marked. Walk right around until you see some bolts. This is a fantastic climb, with a lot of variation. This is Quiet Earth. I felt it was about grade 23 - 'they' call it 21?!. At the top there's one fixed biner - leave it there and rap off that and the ring beside it. I tried to get to the second pitch traversing on the right, but it was a damn scary, so probably needs another bolt or 3. Never assume anything has been finished either. Anyway the pitch after that hasn't been done. Further right is unfinished, so ignore that and keep going up until you see ANZAC parade 4 pitches 18,18,20,18 The third pitch is rather an adventure and has 2 main cruxes.At the chain first and later after turning right before you step up and right around the corner. Send someone brave and either strong or flexible to go up the stemming part first.

Ken's route up the spike

Near the carpark, you can see it from the carpark, the pillar. It's got an interesting approach I hear. Close, but not so close. I also hear it's about grade 10-14 and a few bolts. Any more information you'll just have to bash off to find the thing.

Are you:

Prone to enjoying crashing around lost and confused

A randy old goat

A Bush-bashing explorer

A climber

If you are all of the above take that extra energy of yours and go to castle rock to have some fun.

Your Comments:

This section doesn't actually work, so the truth is that I will never really either care about your comments nor will I ever be able to read them. I just thought that people might like to have a box to write comments in - it might somehow be calming after going to a dangerous climbing area with only a really manky guide book. Personally, I find it quite fun. By the way, there's another area near Hahei, that was developed ages ago. It doesn't have a guide book. Bush bash up to the cliff through gorse from the Cathedral Cove walk parking lot. We just haven't found a nice way to get there yet - but please let me know if you find a less intense approach route. When you see the cliff, near the right side-ish is a lovely crack/corner of about grade 17, which shares the chains with a bolted/trad line of about 19. It's easier to take a rack and do the trad line.